Industry Glossary and Definitions

1 x 1 Rib:
Also 2x2 rib knit trim. The width of each rib is the same as the width between each rib. This helps the garment retain its elasticity.

2-way zipper:
A zipper with two zipper pulls so that it can be unzipped from either direction.

21-wale corduroy:
Fine ribbed cord fabric with 21 rows of corduroy per inch.

4-needle Stitched:
Double-Needle stitched but with four stitches.

50/50:
50 percent cotton / 50 percent polyester fabric; also referred to as poly-cotton.

Acrylic:
Generic name for man-made fibers derived from polyacrylonitrile. Features include a soft, woolly hand; wash and wear performance; brilliant and highshade colors; good sunlight resistance and wrinkle resistance.

All-Weather Microfiber:
100% polyester microfiber with waterproof coating and fully taped seams. 100% waterproof.

Anti-Pill:
A treatment applied to garments primarily to resist the formation of little balls on the fabric's surface due to abrasion during wear.

Baby Pique:
Very small pique knit. See Pique Knit.

Backing:
Cloth or other material used to stabilize fabric and give it body to support embroidery. Two types of backing are tear away and cut away, with different levels of stability.

Back Pleats:
Tiny folds in the material on the back of a garment that allow for more room and comfort.

Back Yoke:
A piece of fabric that connects the back of a garment to the shoulders. This allows the garment to lay flat and drape nicely.

Basketweave Knit:
Process of weaving yarns back and forth resulting in a two-tone appearance.

Birdseye Jacquard:
A small geometric pattern with a center dot knit into the fabric.

Blanket Stitch:
A decorative stitch used to finish an unhemmed blanket. The stitch can be seen on both sides of the blanket.

Box Pleat:
A single, uniform fold in the center back of a garment to allow for more room and comfort.

Brushed Cotton:
Cotton fabric that is brushed to remove all the excess lint and fibers from the fabric, leaving an ultra soft, smooth finish.

Button-Through Sleeve Placket:
A small placket located on the sleeve, by the cuff, which contains a single button closure.

Casual Microfiber:
100% polyester microfiber fabric that is water repellent and wind resistant.

Chambray:
A dressier fabric woven with white threads across colored threads

Coaches Jacket:
Style of jacket comparable to a basic windbreaker, with fold-over collar and slash pockets.

Collarette:
The trim around the neck of a T-shirt or sweatshirt.

Collar Stays:
Thin strips of plastic material inserted into a collar to stabilize collar points.

Combed Cotton:
Cotton yarn that has been combed to remove short fibers and straighten or arrange longer fibers in parallel order resulting in a smooth yarn used in finer garments.

Contract Job:
Embroidery or screenprinting jobs that occur when a customer brings in clothes purchased elsewhere.

Cool Mesh:
Similar to a pique knit but with a more open texture for increased breathability. Features a soft hand for better comfort.

Cool Weave:
Similar to a pique knit but with a more open texture for increased breathability. Slightly larger knit than cool mesh, it has a denser feel.

Cord Locks:
A stopper or toggle on a drawcord that keeps the cord from retracting into the garment.

Coverseamed:
A finish in which two needles are used to create parallel rows of visible stitching. It is used around the neck, armholes, waistband, and wrists of garments to create a cleaner, more durable finish.

Crew Collar:
A rounded, ribbed collar cut close to the neck.

Digitizing:
Method of recreating an embroidery design through information entered into a computer. Instead of a physical act of pushing paper tape, digitizing involves numerical calculations fed through an automatic machine to determine the points of embroidery stitches in a design.

Dobby:
A decorative weave, usually geometric, that is woven into the fabric.

Double-Needle:
A finish used on a sleeve and/or bottom hem that uses two needles to create parallel rows of stitched visible stitching. It gives the garment a cleaner, more finished look and adds durability.

Dry-Fiber:
A high activity sportswear fabric that absorbs, wicks, and dries faster than average golfwear. A knit fabric characterized by vertical lines within the cloth.

Drop-Needle:
Manufactured by "dropping" a needle from the knitting cylinder.

Drop-Tail Hem:
Style of hem where the back panel of the shirt drops lower than the front.

Dyed-to-Match:
Buttons or trims that are the same color as the garment onto which they are sewn.

EcoSpun:
A fleece outerwear fabric made from at least 50% materials reclaimed from recycled plastic soda pop bottles.

Ecru:
Cream or light yellow color or a neutral tan from natural, unbleached cotton, wool, or silk.

End-On-End:
A 2-ply weave of different color yarns that run parallel against each other so that both colors are visible.

Enzyme Washed:
A laundering process in which a catalytic substance is added to create a chemical change in the fabric resulting in a very soft finish, smoother appearing surface, and reduced shrinkage.

Etched Tone Buttons:
A more upscale horn tone button with an etched pattern.

Extended Tail:
 When the back portion of the garment is longer that the front. Assists in keeping the garment tucked in during normal activity.

Eyelets:
Small holes or perforations made in a series to allow for breathability. Finished with either stitching or brass grommets.

Fill:
A stitch to create a solid-appearing area.

Full Cut:
Refers to a garment's fit as being generous and roomy.

Garment Washed:
A wash process where softeners are added to a finished garment to help the cotton fibers relax or bloom. The result is a fabric with a thicker appearance, reduced shrinkage, and a softer hand.

Garment Dyed:
A dyeing process that occurs after the garment is assembled.

Grommet:
An eyelet of firm material to strengthen or protect an opening; also used on samples that are not supposed to be sold or used.

Herringbone:
A chevron or zigzag pattern, knit into fabric.

High Profile:
A cap style with a high slope structured with buckram-a stiff fabric lining. Less fitted to the head.

Horn Tone Buttons:
Buttons that appear to be manufactured from horn.

Houndstooth:
A medium sized broken check effect that is knit into the fabric.

Interlock knit:
A fabric that has two ply knit simultaneously to form one thicker and heavier ply. It has more natural stretch than a jersey knit, a soft hand, and the same appearance and feel on both sides.

Iridescent buttons:
Buttons with a lustrous, rainbow-like hue.

Jacquard Knit:
A pattern knit directly into the fabric during the manufacturing process. Typically,
2 or more colors are used.

Jersey knit:
This fabric has a definite smooth side - the outside - and a textured side - the inside.

Lisle:
Generic name for a two-ply fabric, such as 60/20 ply cotton jersey. It denotes a soft hand, finer cut, and shiny appearance. Technically refers to two ply long staple cotton yarn.

Locker Loop:
A looped piece of fabric in the neck of a garment for the convenience of hanging the garment on a hook. Can also be located at the center of the back yoke on the inside or outside of a garment.

Locker Patch:
A semi-oval panel sewn into the inside back portion of a garment, just under the collar seam, to reinforce the garment and minimize stretching when hung on a hook. The patch also allows for the garment tag or label to be sewn below the neckline to help prevent irritation.

Matte Taslan:
See Taslan but with a dull finish.

Melange:
A mix of different colors of yarns knit together to create a heathered effect.

Mercerized:
A product that has gone through a process to produce a smooth, lustrous hand.

Mesh:
Similar to a pique knit, but with a more open texture for increased breathability. Larger knit than Cool Weave.

Micro Fleece:
A high density, anti-pilling fleece made of knit micro-fibers that are brushed less than a regular fleece garment. It has a high capacity for warmth without the weight.

Microfiber:
This fabric is tightly woven from a very fine poly thread and has a sueded finish for a luxurious, soft feel. Microfiber fabric is naturally water repellent due to its construction process and when specially treated, can also be waterproof.

Micro Cord:
A very fine wale cord.

Micro-Stripe: An ultra-fine stripe that is knit into the fabric.

Mid Profile:
A cap with a slope height in between that of a High Profile and Low Profile. It is most often structured with buckram.

Mother of Pearl Logo Buttons:
Buttons made from Mother of Pearl, with a logo inscribed on them.

Nail Head Design:
A jacquard knitting pattern in which the jacquard forms a design similar to small nail heads.

NuBlend:
The combination of a knitting and spinning process developed by Jerzees for their fleece that helps prevent pilling.

Overdyed:
A process in which yarn dyed fabrics or price dyed garments are put through an additional dye color to create unique colors.

Oxford:
A type of fabric where the fibers are either cotton or blended man-made fibers.

Patch pocket:
A pocket attached to the outside of a garment.

Pearlized Buttons:
Buttons that have a pearl-colored hue.

Pewter Buttons:
Buttons that have a dull, metallic hue.

Pigment Dyed:
A type of dye used to create a distressed or washed look.

Pill Free:
A process developed by Lee to help prevent piling on fleece garments

Pima Lisle:
Fabrics created through a special manufacturing process that twists long strands of 2-ply, 100% Pima Lisle cotton fiber together resulting in a lightweight, durable and extremely soft fabric.

Pique Knit:
A knitting method that creates a fine textured surface that appears similar to a birdsnest or waffle weave.

Placket:
The part of a shirt or jacket where the garment fastens together.

Polyester:
Man-made fiber, offering crease resistance, quick drying, shape retention, strength and minimum care.

Poly-filled:
A warm polyester lining found in the body or sleeves of outerwear garments. It has more loft than a regular nylon lining.

Popcorn Pique:
Alternating rows of 2 different piqueknits; one is baby pique, while the other is a larger pique that resembles small circles knit closely together.

Poplin:
Durable, medium weight cotton or cotton blend fabric made using a rib variation of the plain weave which creates a slight ridge effect.

PVC:
A polyurethane coating that is added to make garments water resistant.

Quilted:
Jacket featuring a lining with two or more layers and a padded filling.

Raglan Sleeves:
Sleeves set with a diagonal seam from the neck to the armpit.

Reverse Placket:
See Placket, but reversed for women's garments.

Rib Knit:
A textured knit that has the appearance of vertical lines. It is highly elastic and retains "memory."

Ring Spun Yarn:
Yarn made by continuously twisting and thinning a rope of cotton fibers. The twisting makes the Ring Spun Yarn short hairs of cotton stand out, resulting in a stronger yarn with a significantly softer hand.

Rip Stop Nylon:
A fabric with a characteristic diagonal over-weave designed to prevent rips or tears from spreading.

R-Tek Fleece:
100% polyester fleece with an anti-pill finish which prevents the formation of little balls on the R-Tek Fleece surface of the fabric.

Sandwashed:
A washing process in which the fabric is washed with very fine lava rocks or rubber/silicon balls, resulting in a softer fabric with a relaxed look and reduced shrinkage.

Scoop neck:
A rounded neck, larger than a crewneck but smaller than a boatneck.

Scrambled Eggs:
A squiggly' cap decoration that is either embroidered directly or is a heat-sealed embroidered patch adhered to the visor of the cap.

Scrub Shirt:
A 100% cotton short sleeve shirt with V-neck, "borrowed" from medical industry style. Taken from "surgical scrubs."

Sculpted Hem:
A hem that is softly rounded for fashion detail.

Self-Fabric Collar:
A collar that is constructed from the same material as the body of the garment.

Self-Fabric Sweatband:
Refers to headwear where the sweatband is constructed with the same fabric as the crown.

Serge Stitch:
An overcasting technique done on the cut edge of the fabric to prevent unraveling.

Set-in sleeves:
Style of sleeve which is sewn into the shoulder seam (as opposed to the neck).

Sherpa Fleece garments:
A plush, breathable, non-pilling material that is quick drying and often used for outerwear.

Side Vents:
Slits found at the bottom of side seams. They are fashion details that allow for comfort and ease of movement.

Single Knit:
Cloth constructed on a circular machine with only one set of needles. Most t-shirts are single knit.

Slash Pockets:
A pocket that has to be entered through a slash on the outside of the garment. The pocket pouch is suspended from and attached to the slash.

Stonewashed:
A washing process in which the fabric or garment is heavily washed with lava rocks or rubber/silicon balls. The result is a softer fabric with a distressed or weathered look and reduced shrinkage.

Storm Flap:
A strip of fabric sewn under or over the front zip or snap closure of an outerwear garment to protect against wind and moisture.

Structured:
A cap style with a lined front consisting of buckram, a stiff fabric, that controls the slope of the cap.

Sub-Contract Job:
Embroidery or Screenprinting jobs that do not occur on-site.

Sueded Cotton:
A fabric that goes through a brushing process to raise the nap and give the garment a soft hand.

Sueded Nylon:
See sueded cotton.

Tab Collar:
A piece of fabric attached to one side of a jacket collar that can fasten to the other side of the collar.

Taffeta:
A group of fabrics made with a plain weave and having a smooth, crisp and either lustrous or dull face.

Taped Seams:
A strip of fabric sewn to the seam of a garment to prevent distortion. In outerwear, taped seams aid in waterproofing.

Taslan:
Refers to how the fibers are woven and the resulting texture. Used mainly in outerwear garments, Taslan is a durable and water repellent nylon fabric with a slightly shiny surface.

Teklon:
A rugged, stronger Taslan nylon that is water repellent.

Tencel:
A fabric made from the cellulose found in wood pulp which is processed into a silk-like, delicate fabric.

Terre-Tek:
A durable and water repellent Taslan with a matte finish.

Terry Velour:
A type of material with uncut loops on both sides. It has a soft, plush feel and is water absorbent.

Tipped collar:
A ribbed knit fashion collar with a contrast color knitted into the edge of the collar.

Tone-on-Tone:
A fabric printed in two tones of the same color.

Triple-Needle Stitched:
See Double-Needle stitched but with 3 stitches.

Tubular Collar:
Collar which is knit in a tube form so it has no seams.

Tuck-In Tails:
A shirt constructed so the back hem is longer than the front. This aids in keeping the shirt tucked-in during strenuous activities.

Tuck Stitch:
Refers to the look of the knit where some stitches are actually under the other stitches. Gives the shirt a waffle-weave type texture and look.

Twill:
A fabric characterized by micro diagonal ribs producing a soft, smooth finish.

Twill Tape Placket Lining:
Twill tape is attached to the inside of the placket for a fashion effect.

Unstructured:
A low profile cap style with a natural low sloping crown. No buckram has been added to the crown.

V Patch:
A section of material in a V shape that is sewn onto a garment directly under the collarette. Can provide support against stretching the neck opening and is also a style component.

Variegated top stitch:
A decorative stitching, typically on neckline and sleeves, which uses multicolored thread to allow for an attractive change in color.

Vents, Front & Back:
Allow for breathability and may aid in ease of decoration, allowing the garment to be hooped and embroidered with no show-through on the inside of the garment. Some vents are tacked down and are for fashion purposes only.

Washer Nylon:
A nylon garment treated with a special finish to produce a crinkled effect.

Water-repellent:
Possessing the ability to resist penetration by water.

Water-resistant:
Resistant to wetting but not waterproof.

Weathered Twill:
A special dye process resulting in a softer fabric with a weathered appearance that will continue to enhance with each wash.

Welt Collar and/or Cuffs:
A single ply fabric with a finished edge that is used for collars and cuffs on sport shirts and short sleeve garments.

Wood Tone Buttons:
Buttons that simulate a wood appearance.

Yarn Dyed:
Yarn that has been dyed prior to the weaving or knitting of the garment.

Yoke:
A part of a garment fitted closely to the shoulders.

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